Wimberry Rocks/ Indian’s Head, Chew Valley
I’ve known Wimberry Rocks all my life as Indian’s head. (Tip your head on one side and you’ll see what I mean!) Situated opposite Alderman Rocks on the opposite side to Dovestones reservoir, Wimberry is an impressive collection of bouldering and trad routes with over 240 routes from trad climbing on the main crag, to bouldering among the moraine down the hillside.
That one week in summer when it’s been bone dry and sunny for weeks. Wimberry is north facing so even on a dry day it can be green and slimy. This also means it’s prone to midges on a dry day – though it’s also high up on the hillside so more often than not its also windy.
Despite all this there are amazing views across the valley and out across Greater Manchester.
What I like the most…
That I’ve grown up admiring this crag all my life and now able to climb it! I visited Wimberry to climb one evening after work, despite having many epic routes such as Pinball Wizard (E2 5c) there’s also really easy route making it accessible for the less experienced like me.
I only managed 2 routes that evening forgetting that it’s a long slog uphill from the car park.
Slab climb (HVD) and Eight meter Corner (D). I struggled a bit with Slab Climb due to the lack of handholds and not trusting my balance while smearing on the green rocks. So much algae I wasn’t convinced I was going to stick!
Eight meter Corner however was a corner crack climb which felt really safe with loads of feet and handholds making me think for the first time I could probably have lead this route.
What could be better….
This would be a really amazing spot if it was South facing and not so green. It’s also 30 minutes from the main car park and a lung busting slog uphill.
Access and parking….
Use postcode OL3 7NE of your satnav. It’ll take you to the sailing club car park.
Follow the signs for Dovestones reservoir from for the A635 from Greenfield and park in the main car park (60p for 3 hours).
To access Wimberry Rocks follow the road past the sailing club and through a large gate at the woodland. When a gap appears in the wall on the right before the river, head through and follow the path uphill. Stay to the left of the river running down the hill. It’s a lung busting slog so pace yourself!
The Clarence Hotel is at the mini roundabout back in Greenfield village. You can’t miss it as you drive back down the hill. They serve good food and a good selection of ales and soft drinks.
Over the Moors – BMC
Western Grit – Rockfax
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