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Women’s Climbing Symposium 2013 // Dynamic Climbing

Dyno climbing moveLeah Crane and Shauna Coxsey, both from Team GB bouldering team, took this workshop during the 2013 Women’s Climbing Symposium at The Arch climbing wall in London. We were split into 2 groups and I was in Leah’s. I had watched Leah at many a competition event and always marvelled at her flying-squirrel like tactics so was eager to learn her secrets.

How to use slopers

This workshop was excellent. Leah started by showing us her warm up routine for dynos. She explained dynamic climbing was not just jumping but moving dynamically. We started simply, learning how to find the “dead spot” and then learned how to move upwards and sideways dynamically using high footing, depending on the distance we want to travel and being comfortable with having both hands off the wall for a period of time. Then we started flying! I mean jumping. Before, I was scared of dynos, of head butting the wall or falling badly, but I was so exhilarated by this workshop  that I can’t wait to get back into the boulder room!

Top tips from the dyno workshop

  1. Coil yourself like a spring in the opposite direction you want to go (Leah calls this setting)
  2. Don’t hang around swinging “getting ready” for it, you are just wasting energy
  3. Use your bum to thrust you in the direction you want to go:pulling into the wall and pushing off at the same time.
  4. Be careful how you will land if you don’t make it!

Beth

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