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WCS 2013 // Awkward Holds

How to use slopersYou could feel the buzz from the moment you stepped in, instantly spotting all the elite climbers milling about and chatting with other attendees.  Initially I was a bit star-struck, but they were so friendly and welcoming it felt like you were just there with a load of mates.

The workshops I attended were Awkward Holds and Dynamic Climbing.  I was looking forward to an afternoon of talks including Rebecca Dent’s talk on nutrition and losing weight safely.

Awkward Holds

This workshop, delivered by Emma Twyford and Suzan Dudink, focused on none other than slopers. Every woman I know hates slopers. I recently attempted a 6c sloper lead on the convex wall at AWCC and spent most of the time cursing to myself and then gave up half way up and changed to a wonderful jug fest.

I was hoping this workshop would give me some tips. And it did. During the hour we were coached and shown how to handle these blobby ba$*?rds. The most useful tips for me were:

  • If you can crimp a sloper, don’t be scared to – open handed handling is fine, but sometimes there is a little bobbly bit you can SQUEEZE the life out of.
  • Use your thumbs
  • Have most of your weight below the sloper, too many of us grip on for dear life and pull up on them.  No. Stay under and move off them fast – don’t delay.

I was also lucky enough to be given some 1-2-1 core training tips by Emma who noticed this was an area for improvement for me. After wailing about doing so much core already she pointed out it was not climbing specific and showed my some great techniques right there and then. If you want to see them in the flesh I suggest you attend the next AWCC Women Climb meet and I can show you!

Beth

Related articles:

Complementary Exercises for Climbing

10 Ways to Get Better at Bouldering

Core Exercises for Climbing

The Core Challenge

WCS 2013 // Yoga, Physio and Inspiration

WCS 2013 // Common Injuries Talk

WCS 2013 // Inspiration

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